FPV Quadcopter Kits:
Weak Racing Drones, Winning Racing Drones
You’re, “FPV Quadcopter Kit”, on the verge of purchasing a drone. You should know there are different models, builds, options, & features that confuse inexperienced users. If you are experienced, then all these options will make you feel like a child in a candy store – you want them all but you don’t have enough money.
Thanks to Lumenier for providing parts for this build: www.getfpv.com After learning about the world of FPV quadcopter racing.
Here’s a step by step video tutorial showing how to build your own Micro 5.8Ghz FPV camera setup. More details and links.
FPV Quadcopter Kit.
OFM Jumper 600 FPV Quadcopter Kit is a low cost Quadcopterdesigned for FPV and Aerial filming with GoPro cameras.
FT 210 FPV Quadcopter Kit – BUILD
TJ and Stefan step through the complete build of the FT 210 FPV Quadcopter Kit, including electronics and setup in Betaflight.
The racer 250 DIY Kit CC3D or Naze32, And The flash deal. http://bit.ly/1Uhpa9Y – Coupon code my fans “.
Add FPV to your Blade Nano and Inductrix mini FPV Quadcopter Kit and some tips for making your own mini FPV race course using the Hyperion.
Find the kit here: http://www.gearbest.com/multi-rotor-parts/pp_413710.html?wid=21&lkid=10235133 1:38 make sure flight controller.
Follow the Build Guide for Part Two ..
In this video, I am Assemble Drone Micro FPV Quadcopter Kit DM002, Easy clip to assemble in 5 minutes. – You can get KIT DIY.
Tips Building Your Own Quadcopter Racer
Once you build a few quadcopter kits, it becomes apparent that there are some tricks of the trade, which you wish you would have known from the get-go. The following are a few insights to building a custom racer out of an FPV kit:
When it comes to batteries, bigger isn’t always better. At first, you should see if you can get a smaller battery – there is a difference between a 2200 mAh battery and a 1000 mAh one. You will have a better flight time with the former; but there is no sense flying around for 10 minutes, if the drone handles like a bus.
Sticking with the battery, you should consider getting equipment which is 3S and 4S compatible. If your flier isn’t able to handle 4S batteries, you can find yourself having to build another one. We are specifically speaking about ESC’s and motors, because that’s where the main difference comes from.
The Racerstar 2306S motors are probably the cheapest motors you can find on the market, but these are definitely NOT the best motors. If you have the budget, get the Dragonfly 2207instead, it’s a huge step up in performance and quality.
I really cannot recommend 4-in-1 ESC’s for someone’s first build. Yes, they are easier to work with, but if you burn out one ESC then you are screwed (you will have to replace the whole module).
Your choice of radio receiver (RX) depends on what radio transmitter (TX) you use. For an Frsky Taranis user, either the XSR or R-XSR is going to be an excellent choice.
XSR and R-XSR have the same features and range, but the R-XSR is smaller and lighter. Size is really not a big deal for the roomy Martian frame, not to mention the price of XSR has dropped significantly since the release of R-XSR.
I would probably recommend getting the XSR for this build if you want to save money.
I am picking the Eachine VTX03 transmitter because it’s small, affordable, and just works. We can power it with the 5V on our FC.
It comes with a simple dipole antenna so we don’t need to buy an FPV antenna separately, that should be good enough for 500+ meters open field.
#: FPV Camera
I use Runcam Swift 2 and Eagle 2 FPV cameras on nearly all my quads, because of the superior image quality. For budget builders, the cheaper Foxeer HS1177 CCD camera is also a good option.
All these cameras have the same dimension, mounting, and wire connections, so don’t worry which one you are getting, the installation will be the same.
There is no need to have OSD in the camera really, because our FC has built-in Betaflight OSD.
Many recommend the Eachine 1200TVL camera ($13), I personally do not agree because of its terrible WDR and more importantly, the weird shape. It’s going to be a nightmare mounting it in the frame.
I am using Kingkong 5045 Triblade in this build. These are a bit “slow” for me, but they are perfect beginner props. You get them for $1 a set and they just don’t break! I have been using the same set for over 20 LiPo now and they are still going 🙂
#: The Frame
For the frame of your racer, you should go with carbon fiber. There are lots of other options, but carbon fiber is stronger and lighter. You should also avoid carbon-glass options. Just spend the extra money for a light and strong carbon fiber frame. It will take a very nasty crash for it to break and it is the go-to material for the best frames out there. It is really is worth the extra money.
A Few More Tips
Important: keeping the weight down. Added objects, on your aircraft drag it down and lead to less flight time and undesirable handling.
Be counter-intuitive: Directly solder your wires, then flying and crashing your aircraft, and rather than re-soldering, make them modular. Get rid of bullet connectors and direct solder everything. This is weight reduction.
Remove landing gears, unless aerial photography, in which case keeping them is sensible, for a racer, there really is no need. You can figure out the rest from here, and if not; you will learn.